Journey Woman - My Little Trip - Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City

Locally referred to as Saigon, the City's former title.

 

In the way that Asian cities are full to overflowing with every delight, and not so delight imaginable, Ho Chi Minh City is no exception.

Traffic flows 24/7, in a veritable stream of organised chaos, serving the transfer of HCMC's immense population from home, to work, to play. The poor share the streets on which they sleep with the rich, the latter mentioned barely touching the pavement with their feet from the strata at which they live.
 

On every street corner, and the nooks and crannies between, locals ply their trade. Without entering a door way one can purchase anything from a full wardrobe to a puncture repair.
 

Hawkers can, and will, drive even the most placid tourist to the point of distraction!

 

A tourist can wait 20 minutes to cross the street, and will pay four times the going price for local fares. The pavements can be more dangerous than the roads, and it pays to hang onto your bag. Eating can be touch and go, with one bad meal between a great or rotten holiday.The hotel safe is easily broken open, and heaven knows who was in your room while you were out shopping.

Although, to be fair, one must acknowledge that the average Asian hotel is also among the cleanest and cheapest in the world, the staff among the friendliest, and the people among the most helpful.

For it's color, taste, culture and so much more, South East Asia is still a travellers delicacy. I for one will keep on going back for more.

 

Saigon, is an Asian city that does not disappoint. Night and day the city is a smorgasbord for the senses; some things distinctly Vietnamese and some, such as the durian fruit, particularly Asian. 

 

A Slice of the Saigon Night

I arrived into HCMC at 9.00pm to find a city pumping with life. The traffic was flowing, karaoke blaring, and every shopfront alight spruiking it's trade.

The city was definitely open for business.

Major streets are wide, crossings are few, and skill is required to cross from one side to the other. 

Foot traffic does not own right of way on pavements, which are most utilised as motor bike parking. It pays to keep your eyes open and be aware. I learned that watching for hazards made for a much better day.

HCMC flows to the sound of the motor scooter horn, which is by far the most popular mode of transport for locals. Taxis are prominent, and major operators offer the convenience of radio operators on the streets to facilitate pick-ups.  Be sure to check the meter is running and reset at the start of your journey, otherwise negotiate a price before you start your ride.

I took advantage of the motorbike taxi in HCMC for the cheap fares, but continued to flag them  throughout Vietnam in preference over a stuffy cab ride.

Getting from Tan Son Nhat International Airport to HCMC is relatively fast and easy, being well organised and close to the city. The taxi and bus stands are well appointed right outside the main exit, and motorbike taxi is just across the road. It is better to leave the airport directly through the main doors, and cross to the stands that sit in the median strip of the main airport traffic thorough fare.

A taxi is easy to organise from a number of desks operating at the median strip stands, costing around 120,000 to 150,000 dong to District 1.
The bus travels to Ben Thanh Terminal and all stops along the way. The bus is very efficient, departs every 5 - 20 minutes from the end of the strip until 9pm, and cost is around 6000 dong.
Motor scooter taxi is available for those solo and travelling light, 60,000 to 90,000 dong is around the going rate. Beware of having your bag slashed from your back, aware travellers carry their belongings to the front.

HCMC offers plenty of accommodation options from backpacker dorm rooms through to full service 5 star properties. It is good to do some research at what is on offer, new hotels will offer good rates for great amenities, some great hotels run short promotions, and early bird specials also save dollars.

For arrival at most budget hotels in District 1, be prepared to be plonked on a major thoroughfare and pointed toward a laneway. Found along the laneways,lining both sides and stacked side by side, are the myriad of identical 2 to 3 star hotels. 

My base in HCMC was the Ailen Garden Hotel, located just on the outskirts of the backpacker area in District 1, off Pham Ngu Lao. While the Ailen Garden was a little short on garden, it offered a quiet and clean room with a modern bathroom, and all the basic facilities expected. There were no bells and whistles, and I was more than happy with comfortable, friendly, and a stone throw away from everything.

During the day the Vietnamese go to work, making people watching from the café window an interesting way to pass some time. Although, with only two full days in HCMC, there was little time for sitting and watching. Drawn by the history of the place, I filled my first morning at the Post Office, Notre Dame Cathedral, Ben Than Market, and Reunification Palace and Museum. For lunch I jumped onto a foodie tour which is a must, and went onto the War Remnants Museum after lunch for a very sobering lesson from history.

HCMC has plenty of offer in the way of night life, in the evenings the local people leave work and go out to eat and socialise on the streets. There are plenty of bars set up for those who are looking to party with other travellers, if that is your thing. I was yearning for something not on offer at home, so I headed for the food and sights at the night markets surrounding Ben Thanh Market.


Friends in September 23 Park

Dancing in September 23 Park






















September 23 Park is a safe, relatively quiet place to take a break from the evening crush of the streets. Located between Pham Ngu Lao and Le Lei streets, the park is well lit and shaded in the day, and used by locals as a meeting place for all sorts of activities from boot camp to ballroom dancing. Day and night, it is a fantastic outdoor space to watch life go by, and of course there is always somewhere close to grab a coffee or a cold drink.

A public bus service can take you to Cu Chi Tunnels, which will take up the most part of a day from District 1 and surrounds. A better option is to jump on one of the many tour buses that depart HCMC for the Tunnels daily, and select a tour option that suits your needs. The impressive Cao Dai Temple is close by and well worth including in your day's itinerary. Tour options are endless, due to the volume of operators leading varied and diverse tours everyday.

There are also many options for a visit to the Mekong Delta from HCMC. My choice of tour was on the back of a Vesper. The Mekong Delta is simply amazing, most tours include at least a visit to a village, a market, and a cooking class. My recommendation is for an early morning start in order to take full advantage of the floating markets. Tours start at around 10 USD for a half day bus trip, with some operators offering multiple days of Mekong Delta travel. Most operators leave early morning, and return to HCMC around lunch time. The Mekong Delta trip fit perfectly in my schedule, filling the morning before my departure on the afternoon train heading north.

Next Post: Overnight Train - North from Saigon


 

 

Giving Buckwheat Seed Bread A Go

In my eternal search for "super foods" that may aid the specific dietary needs of my husband, buckwheat caught my attention.

A little about buckwheat. Buckwheat is a fruit seed with a mild nutty flavour. It service well as an alternative to grain, for those sensitive to protein glutens. Buckwheat is low GI, and a high source of essential minerals and soluble fibre. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties, as well as amino acids that aid in the production of serotonin. Most importantly in for our needs, it is easy to digest, promotes bowel health, and is a high energy food.

In my husband fattening quest, I have had some great success with recipes from the fabulous Sarah Wilson @ I Quit Sugar. The ingredients tick the boxes on our nutrition list and taste good too. I found this super easy Buckwheat & Seed Bread recipe, and ploughed headlong into my first cooking with buckwheat foray.

I had all of the listed ingredients in my pantry, aside from buckwheat. Surprisingly, the buckwheat was easy to find at Woolies, just sitting right there on the shelf right next to the seeds and grains that I regularly purchase. Such is my selective vision!

I followed the recipe instructions exactly, left the dough sitting overnight, and by mid morning was rewarded with a piping hot loaf, identical to the mouth watering image on the website. 

The scent of roasted grains filling the house was an added bonus!

Now for the final test, the taste. Will I make this loaf again?

While this loaf rates high on taste, the idea of a mouth full of seeds did spring to mind. Clearly I was expecting a different texture. It wont be on my "go to" list yet, but I wouldn't rule it out completely. The recipe is a fabulous find if you are looking for a loaf that is barely a bread, and all the way seeds.

My family were happy to eat slices toasted, topped with cream cheese, tomato, and basil. However, the loaf was not devoured, which is my general benchmark for the "go to" list.

So, with my search still in progress, my next loaf will be a Buckwheat & Chia Bread, found on another of my favourite sites, thehealthychef. The ingredients are similar, the main difference being that the buckwheat is blended after the soaking process. Also, less cooking time is required, thus less loss of nutrient value.

Be sure to check back to see how my newest oven adventure turns out.

Eating to Put On Weight

Most people only wish that they had issue with lack of weight gain. People who struggle to retain weight, however, are not most people.

Those who struggle to maintain a healthy body mass know that gaining weight is not as easy as eating a dreamy diet of endless delicacies.

Generally, our body is very good at converting the energy we feed it, so long as it is the right kind of energy. However, for many reasons the energy conversion process can become impaired, and a person can struggle to retain a healthy weight.

The weight retention issue in my kitchen is not my own, but belongs to my husband. While now cured from cancer, the removal of the oesophagus and its role in digestion means that  his body does not process foods efficiently, and struggles to absorb sufficient nutrients.

In order to supply his body with enough energy to retain weight, he eats at least six small meals per day, and add healthy snacks in between when possible. Through a long and continuous process of trial and error, we have found certain foods that do and don't help in weight and energy retention. 

Whole milk dairy products, foods fried in vegetable oil or containing high fat content, as well as goods high in refined sugar are all out. Most dehydrated powders cause digestive issues, which makes cooking all foods from scratch a must. Protein supplements are problematic; skim milk powder added to store bought milk has proved a less troublesome alternative.

Portion size is also an issue. Too much food also leads to extreme digestive pain, and defeats the purpose of eating to gain weight.

Oils ain't oils, and in this case it is so. Rice bran oil has become my everyday, I use small amounts of good quality olive oil in dressings, dips, and low smoke point cooking. My oil shelf has expanded to include grapeseed oil for it's mild flavour, and coconut oil in place of butter in baking.

Almond butter has replaced peanut butter, and I now use far more of it in baking and sweet making than ever before. Nuts and seeds, fruits, eggs, wholemeal and grain breads, lean meats, and cheeses, have all proved to be more beneficial for weight retention than sugary, fatty, high kilojule foods.

I have learned new ways to make food that is not only wholesome, but contains ingredients that work to boost health and vitality. When every mouthful counts, nutritional value is the key!